I've been in that direction three times in three months. First, in February, on a day trip to Bharatpur and Keoladeo Bird Sanctuary, next in March to see the main attraction, the Taj Mahal, and finally today to see the ghost city of Fatepur Sikri, built by Akbar 450 years ago and quickly abandoned because it had no source of water. (Whoops.)
A few months ago, one of my coworkers commented that the road from Delhi to Agra is one of the best in India. I had to choke down a laugh. My first trip, I made the mistake of sitting in the front seat, and the entire time I needed to keep my eyes closed as we darted in and out of traffic, nearly ran over several jaywalkers, dodged herds of cows, all in the pitch dark. However, by the end of today, I kind of understood. Sure, it's busy, and it's full of trucks competing with bicycles competing with rickshaws competing with buses. But, once you turn off that road you can barely find drivable pavement. It's all relative, I guess.
I'll vividly remember the road to Agra because it gives you such a vivid picture of India. You pass by gigantic mall complexes and little straw huts. You stop to pay the tourist tax and you're surrounded by touts with cheap necklaces. You drive through stretches where there's not a building in sight. And of course, there is always so much noise and chaos, but your driver never seems to look nervous as he tootles away on the horn.
Everyone has heard stories about the Taj Mahal. It's the getting there, though, that really makes you realize what's so special about India.
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